A concern has been raised about the weight of this board. To be honest I hadn't considered it. I'd thought about area, storage and breakdown etc but for some reason weight never came to mind. So I've worked it out.
The lightest tiles are 450g, the heaviest almost a kilo. The average tile is going to be around 850g. That's for a tile with a straight or corner with pillars and a few extra terrain bits thrown on for good measure. Assuming the lightest and heaviest cancelthemselves out somewhat, the end result is the board weighing around 30kg. Heavy but not unreasonable.
Monday, 28 September 2009
Sunday, 27 September 2009
So, as said the original plan was a room/corridor per tile. It would have looked somewhat like this:

So, after a brief re-think. I switched doors for walls like so:


I then sat down with my technical pad to think about the tiles and what to make. The result I came up with is:

The above sections will give me all the basic options with extra straights and corners, some doglegs and two u-turns. While the doglegs and u-turns can be achieved on other tiles, having tiles specific to it gives more restriction on those tiles and allows for some interesting terrain scenes. Particularly the u-turns with their row of alcoves, just asking for statues or sconces. Currently I have six blank tiles which will allow me to place large "scatter" terrain pieces such as fountains or perhaps stairs as entry points. A blank tile cant rotate, simply because it would be difficult to lift out and there is little point as figures can leave from any side anyway. I may cut it down to four blank tiles as it strikes me that six will give too much open space. There's no way to actually tell until it's all done though.
Most of the floor tiles will be built like this, although with walls added:

Some will be built like this however:

As I said earlier, with a bit of preperation this whole build can become very quick and simple. I have now cast the standard block mold many, many times and have achieved this:

That will have to be enough pics for now. Next proper update will be with a mold or a finished tile build I suspect.
This post has pictures and everything!
Okay, so the project continues. The initial idea was that each tile would be a room or corridor and could be shifted around. Each entry point to a tile would be on the central two inches per side with walls around the rest. Obviously not all the entry points would be open, otherwise there'd be no point to the labyrinth!
So, I bought 8" square MDF bases from http://www.eastridingminiatures.co.uk/index.htm and a selection of Egyptian Molds from http://www.hirstarts.com/molds/moldsegypt.html (or I would have done if I didn't own them already).
Here's a shot of my casting area with casting in progress. The black molds are rock molds for another project, the turquoise ones are the Hirst Arts molds and the white ones are some custom molds I made to speed up casting.

Okay, so the project continues. The initial idea was that each tile would be a room or corridor and could be shifted around. Each entry point to a tile would be on the central two inches per side with walls around the rest. Obviously not all the entry points would be open, otherwise there'd be no point to the labyrinth!
So, I bought 8" square MDF bases from http://www.eastridingminiatures.co.uk/index.htm and a selection of Egyptian Molds from http://www.hirstarts.com/molds/moldsegypt.html (or I would have done if I didn't own them already).
Here's a shot of my casting area with casting in progress. The black molds are rock molds for another project, the turquoise ones are the Hirst Arts molds and the white ones are some custom molds I made to speed up casting.

The colour variation is due to me adding some clothes dye to the plaster to see if I could colour the casts. It works but increases setting time significantly. As a note of warning, I've also tried adding in acrylic and poster paint, these don't work! Not only is setting time drastically increased but the plaster doesn't mix properly making air bubbles virtually guaranteed and it also weakens the casts themselves. With my normal casts I can't break a standard block without tools, the casts with paint added, I could crush with some effort.
Another update shortly, I'm being sent to forage for food right now.
Thursday, 24 September 2009
And so it starts.....
So, a Blog! I know, they're so cliche'd these days. Anyone reading this will be happy to know I have no interest in pouring my heart out or treating this as a diary. This is happening so that I have a central place to list my wargaming projects and hopefully keep me on track with them.
So, the first project up is an Egyptian labyrinth board. This will be made up of 36 8x8" tiles which will cover a 4'x4' area. The idea being that after each players turn they can rotate some tiles thereby altering the board layout quickly and easily.
The tiles will be made from plaster castings made with Hirstarts' Egyptian molds on very thin MDF squares. The plaster used is a stonecast powder. Fairly easy to get, pretty cheap and much stronger than plaster of paris. The next post will show my initial ideas, why they don't work and the first tile being built.
So, the first project up is an Egyptian labyrinth board. This will be made up of 36 8x8" tiles which will cover a 4'x4' area. The idea being that after each players turn they can rotate some tiles thereby altering the board layout quickly and easily.
The tiles will be made from plaster castings made with Hirstarts' Egyptian molds on very thin MDF squares. The plaster used is a stonecast powder. Fairly easy to get, pretty cheap and much stronger than plaster of paris. The next post will show my initial ideas, why they don't work and the first tile being built.
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